A week or two spent revelling in the languid luxury of Goaâs sunny sosegado, or susegad, two Portuguese colonial-era terms roughly translated as âlaid-backness,â is one not to be missed on any hectic visit to mammoth, fascinating, often impossibly frenetic India. Though five-star resorts such as the Intercontinental, the Hyatt and the Kempinski have long made their mark on this most diminutive of Indian states (all characterised by top-notch service, opulent surroundings and calm, sand-raked beaches) there is nevertheless much charm to be had in forsaking the mammoth swimming pools and generic â if generous â resort bedrooms, and plumping instead for a stay in one of Goaâs most evocative, charismatic heritage boutique hotels.